Collar



June 15 1926.

M. PUGATSKY ET AL 0 OLLAR Filed Nov. 13, 1925 INVENTOR Patented June 15,1926.-

UNITED STATES max PUGATSKY, on NEW vonx,

AND BARNETT H. GQLDSTEIN, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

GOLLAR.

Application filed November 13, 1925. Serial No. 68,768.

Our present invention relates primarily to collars, and has particularreference to soft collars of the turn-down type, and to a method ofmaking the same.

So-called soft collars of the usual construction have numerouswell-known disadvantages, among which is the tendency to crease andwrinkle and to lose shape in a manner impairing the appearance of thecollar and shortening its life.

7 It is among the objects of the present invention to provide a collarwhich will have none of the disadvantages 'lieretofore inherent incollars of this type, and which is constructed in accordance with amethod requiring the least amount of skill, material and time.

More particularly, it is an object of this invention to provide a collarwhich will embody reinforcing means of such a character and so arrangedas to render the manufacture simple and inexpensive and to produce afinished article having enhanced utility and appearance.

According to one feature of the invention, the collar is constituted ofa neck band portion and'a turn-down portion, and reinforcing strips areprovided along the periphery of the turn-down portion in accordance witha predetermined plan. A feature of the invention lies in employingreinforcing strips which are relatively less yieldable in one directionthan in a perpendicular direction, and in a preferred embodiment,

we utilize hair cloth for this purpose, the

strips being arranged in accordance with-a predetermined plan with thehair threads disposed either longitudinally or trans versely of thestrip.

One of the important features of the mvention lies in providing the endedges and the free longitudinal edge of the turn-down portion with haircloth Tstrips whose hair threads run" longitudinally of the strips, i.e., substantially parallel to the edges; and in providing the remainingor inner longltudinal edge of the turn-down portion wlth a strip whosehair threads are arranged transversely; By virtue of. this construetion, the collar is made readily flexible and bendable at the portionwhich embraces the neck of a wearer so'that the collar can conformsmoothly to the required contour, while simultaneously the outer edgesof the turn-down portion are given a relative stiff- In a preferredconstruction, the neck band portion is constituted of two superposedplies or components, an inner component and an outer component, and theturn-down portion is gripped and engaged by the neck band portion alongits inner longitudinal edge. More particularly, in super-posing the twoplies referred to, we engage the reinforcing strip of the innerlongitudinal edge of the turn-down portion between the plies in a mannerconcealing said edge entirely; and we thereupon stitch about theperiphery of the neck band portion so that the superposed plies areunited and the turn-down portion is en aged. by the stitching along'aline closely at? the reinforcing strip. 4

For the attainment of the foregoing objects and such other objects asmay hereinafter appear or be pointed out, we have illustrated oneembodiment of our invention in the accompanying drawings, in which l aFig. 1 is a substantially plan view of the completed collar, portionsthereof being broken away to show the interior construction;

1 Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view of the turndown portion, showing a stepin'its method of manufacture;

Fi 3 is a similar fragmentary view showing the turn-down portion inposition with respect to the neck band portion, just prior to attachmentthereto; and

Fig.4 is an exaggerated cross-sectional view taken along the line H ofFig. 1, showing in dotted lines the position assumed by the turn-downportion when the collar is ready for use.

Referring now the drawings, it will be seen that we have provided a neckband portion 1 0 provided with suitable button holes llfin 'a well-knownmanner, and a turn-down portion 12. Having a free or outer longitudinaledge 13, two end edges 14, preferably at a suitable angle to the edge 13in accordacent to l 55 ness and reinforcement which causes the I ancewith the contour of collar desired, and

longitudinal edges have been doubled back to overlie one side of theoriginal strip, the latter being then doubled on itself to completelyenclose these edges. his method of forming the reinforcing strips isclearly shown in Fig. 4, and constitutes no essential feature of myinvention, this method of enclosing the raw edges of a strip beingwellknown in the art. Referring more particu-' larly to Fig. 4, thedisposition of the reinfo-rcing strip in the outer longitudinal edge 13will be clear. The reinforcing strip 16, constituting in its final formfour plies,

is prevented from unfolding by a row of stitching 17; it is thenattached to the very edgeof the portion 12 by a single row of stitching18, and the edge is then folded on itself twice to form a seamcompletely enclosing the reinforcing 16. Two rows of stitching 19 arethen run along and through the seam to hold the latter in position.

This method of construction refers to the edges 13 and 14. The inneredge 15 of the turn-down portion 12 is not seamed, and a strip ofreinforcing material 20 is attached thereto by two rows of stitching 21.The

strip 20 comprises a strip substantially similar to the strips 16, itsmethodof construction being clearly shown in Fig. 2, including the lineof stitching 22 originally run through the four plies of the strip tohold them together. The strip 20 is preferably attached to the edge 15on the side of the material 12 opposite to the side upon which thestrips 16 have been attached.

In accordance with our invention, the strips 16 are arranged to havetheir hair threads substantially parallel to the edges upon which theyare attached, whereas the strlp 20 is constructed to have its hairthreads running transversely thereof so that they are not parallel, butsubstantially perpendicu-lar, to the edge 15.

The turn-down'portion 12 is now ready for assembly with the neck bandportion 10. The latter comprises two components, an inner component23-and an outer component 24, each of which has its longitudinaledgesdoubled back to form seams the portions 23 and 24 being then superposedto enclose the doubled back edges therebetween. A line of stitching 25is run peripherally about the neck bandportion 10 to hold the portions23 and 24 in superposed positions, but prior to this stitchingoperation, the turn-down portion 12 is inserted between the plies 23 and24, in a manner clearly shown in Figs. 3 and. 4, so that the edge 15 andits reinforcing strip 20 are gripped and engaged between the plies 23and 24. The line of stitching 25 is then made, and it will be obviousthat it will pass through the poition 12 along a line closely adjacentto the strip 20, thereby totally concealing the strip 20 and firmlyattaching the turn-down portion 12 to'the neck band portion 10.

It will be obvious that the strip 20 defines the fold line about whichthe portion 12 will hinge; and the arrangement of its hair threadsperpendicularly to the edge 15 llllparts to the strip 20 a relativelygreater yieldability to bending in the direction the finished collarwill be bent about the neck of a wearer. This permits the collar toconform smoothly to. the particular contour of the neck, at the sametime imparting to the upper edge of the neck band portion a certain bodyand rigidity which is extremely advantageous. On the other hand, thearlj'lllgellltllt of the hair threads in the strips 16 imparts to thesestrips relatively greater resistance to bending longitudinally of theedges, and as a result these edges will retain their normal positions ina surprisingly efficient manner, eflectually preventing wrinkling andcreasing of the turn-down portion when the collar is in use.

In some cases we prefer to stop the strips 16 along the end edges 14 atthe fold line, instead of extending them completely to the edge 15. Thisconstruction permits the collar to fold more easily along a fold linewhich has already been defined according to predetermined design by thestrip 20.

It will be obvious that various. changes in.

the details herein described and illustrated for the purpose ofexplaining the nature of our invention, may be made by' those skilled inthe art without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention asexpressed in the appended claims. It is therefore intended that thesedetails be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus disclosed our invention, and illustrated its use,*what wedesire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a turn-down soft collar of the char acter described, thecombination of a neck band portion, a turn-down portion, and hair clothreinforcing strips carried by the latter along its periphery, the stripsalong the outer longitudinal edge and along the end edges being arrangedwith their hair threads substantially parallel to the respective edges.2. In a turn-down soft collar of the charalong its pe'rip ery, thestrips along the outer longitudinal edge and along the end edges beingarranged with their hair threads substantially parallel tothefrespective edges. and the strip alon the inner longitudinal edgehaving its hair threads perpendicular to said edge. v

3. In a turn-down soft collar of the character described, thecombination of a neck band portion having superposed components, aturn-down portion having one'longltudinal edge interposed between saidcomponents, and reinforcing strips carried by the turndown portion alongits periphery, the strip along the interposed edge being relatively moreyieldable to longitudinal bending than to transverse bending.

acter described, the combination of a neck band portion havingsuperposed components, a turn-down portion having one longitudinal Ledgeinterposed between said components,

and reinforcing strips. carried by the turndown portion along itsperiphery, the strip along the interposed edge being relatively moreyieldable to longitudinal bending than to transverse bending, and thestrip along the tree longitudinal edge being relatively more yieldableto transverse bending than to longitudinal bending.

5. In a turn-down soft collar of the character described, thecombination of a neck band portion having superposed components, aturn-down portion having one longitudinal edge interposed between saidcomponents,

and hair cloth reinforcing strips carried by the turn-down portion alongits periphery, the strip along the interposed edge having its hairthreads arranged transversely of said edge, whereby said strip will.define the fold line and will simultaneously permit the collar toconform smoothly to the neck of a wearer. 4, In a turn-down soft collarof the char-' In witness whereof, we. have hereunto signed our names,this 2nd day of November, 1925. l v

MAX PUGATSKY. BARN E'llT H'. GOLDSTEIN.

